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Nara Shines with style and freshness (Newark Star Ledger 6/27/04)
By Maria Astel for the Star Ledger
Tucked in the far corner of a strip mall, beyond the Burger King and standing directly in the line of traffic of its drive-up window, a gem of a Japanese restaurant dishes up top-notch cuisine in understated surroundings. The unassuming Nara has been quietly doing its thing for 15 years and as such, is one of the first sushi restaurants to to open in Morristown. It’s formula for success is simple: Rely on fresh ingredients, prepare them with skill and care and present and serve each dish with style and grace.
Little did we know, as we dodged carloads making their way to the pick-up window for a fast food fix, that we would be walking out of the line of fire and into a sanctuary of serenity. Simple decor, shoji-style screens and paper lanterns hanging from the ceiling and mounted to the stark white walls signaled that the stresses of the outside world were not welcome here. And thoughtful touches, such as lovely ceramic dish ware, some pieces depicting songbirds on tree branches, brought a touch of beauty to the tabletop.
Cares of the day slipped away as we sipped from teaming cups of green tea, offered to us upon our arrival. A plate of pickled carrots and daikon radish made us feel like welcomed guests, as did our kimono-clad server, who agreeably answered our questions about the menu. Of course, Nara offers an extensive list of sushi and sashimi selections, but there are also plenty of choices fro those who are still squeamish at the thought of sitting down to a plate of raw fish.
We started with a very mild miso soup, bolstered with seaweed, tofu and scallions, and steamed edamame or soybean pods, both being staples of a Japanese menu. An avocado salad, mixed greens topped with a perfectly ripened avocado and a sprinkling of pickled cabbage, offered a variety of textures and taste sensations: creamy, crunchy, sweet and sour. Delicate shrimp shumai, dumplings made from rice flour and stuffed with shrimp and mild aromatics, plump and light, amounted to pure pleasure on a plate.
Do try the tuna tataki, peppered tuna that’s quickly seared, served with shredded daikon and sprinkled with sesame seeds and a light, soy based sauce. The ruby red tuna was beautifully prepared, bearing a slight smoky flavor from the heat of the pan, followed by a lusty pepper bite. Tatsuta age, Japanese fried chicken was a table favorite. A crisp, crunchy and non greasy exterior gave way to moist and tender boneless pieces of white meat chicken within. We marveled over the simplicity of the dish and the skill required to pull it off without flaw. The beef negimaki, seared beef tenderloin with scallions, was straight forward and eminently satisfying.
For dinner we chose from both the cooked and uncooked sides of the menu. Nara’s chef's choice on the sushi deluxe. Our [plate included yellowtail, mackerel, salmon, tuna, fluke, sea bass, and white tuna, all served raw, of course, on wedges of seasoned rice.
We thought that the white tuna was squid, which is what it looked like, but our waitress informed us otherwise. Sadly, it didn’t taste like much a and was the only disappointment on the plate. We went with rolls for our other sushi plate, and picked the intriguing dinosaur roll, a dragon roll, and a spicy tuna roll. How striking the dinosaur looked stuffed with spiced shrimp and wrapped in a layer of rice and seaweed, then swathed with slices of plum. The colors of the fruit, pink to purple were particularly magnificent. The dragon roll was yet another beauty. Oftentimes the eel the chief ingredient of the dragon roll, is hidden on the inside, underneath the rice. Here, the eel and avocado are wrapped on the outside, their color used to heighten the visual experience and crunchy cucumber is tucked within. And, I'm happy to report, that the roll tasted as good as it looked.
The Nara tempura deluxe also came with lots of eye appeal. Long strips of chicken tenders, shrimp, scallops and an array of vegetables were presented in pyramid fashion with onion rings crowning the peak. The batter was light and ethereal, and not the slightest bit greasy. The integrity of each ingredient remained intact, the shrimp bursting with flavor, the scallops rich and buttery and the vegetables - broccoli, eggplant, sweet potato - still maintaining their individuality.
The chicken and steak teriyaki arrived to table with its own bit of fanfare - sizzling and smoking - and served on a abed of wilted cabbage and bean sprouts. The portion was generous and the toothsome teriyaki was yet another dish that the kitchen executed with great finesse.
The chef bowed and thanked us for coming as we took our leave, and we in turn, commended him for a wonderful meal and a pleasurable evening.
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